How to get started in HDTV...

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Actors and Actresses » Archive du blog » Eric Gunnerson’s C# Compendium : How to get started in HDTV…

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re: How to get started in HDTV...

Raj Kaimal — Mon, 19 Sep 2005 17:24:59 GMT

The problem with HD these days is that it is compressed so much that what you see is not really HD. See article below.

HDTV buyers get fuzzy deal, Cuban says
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=574980

re: How to get started in HDTV...

Michael Teper — Mon, 19 Sep 2005 09:57:02 GMT

FYI: HDTiVo can now be had for $199 - $299. Head over for TiVoCommunity.com for details.

re: How to get started in HDTV...

BradC — Sun, 18 Sep 2005 07:56:58 GMT

Some of the best HDTV antennas are available at http://www.antennasdirect.com/

A home-grown business by a guy who wasn't satisfied with HDTV antenna reception, so he made his own, and they work better than most everything else out there.

re: How to get started in HDTV...

Todd Ostermeier — Sun, 18 Sep 2005 05:03:01 GMT

Funny post!

I've been on the HD bandwagon since 2001, and love it. A couple of points, going from least technical to most technical:

1) A couple years ago, the answer to, "Is the show I want broadcast in HDTV?" would've been "No!". Now, it's more like, "Probably not, unless it's on a premium channel like HBO or you live in an area with local channels in HDTV and you have a provider that carries them that way or you're able to get them over the air." In other words, shows like 24, The O.C., or House (all on Fox) or Rome, Sopranos, or Deadwood (all on HBO) probably will be available to you in HD. Shows like Rescue Me or Nip/Tuck (on FX, the poor cable-only bastard of Fox) or Battlestar Gallactica (on Sci-Fi) probably won't be (though the shows may be shot in a 480p 16x9 format and thus the DVDs will be worth it).

2) You didn't mention DVDs at all. While currently DVDs only play in EDTV (Enhanced Definition, or 480p 16x9), they still look extremely good on an HD set with a progressive scan DVD player (used to be you'd pay $500+ for one, now they give them away free if you buy a box of cereal).

3) If you're aiming for over-the-air HD signals, you need to be more picky in the big ass TV you buy. There are two buzz-words, "HDTV" and "HDTV-ready" (also seen as "HDTV-compatible"). The former means that the TV comes complete with an HD tuner in the box. The latter means the TV can handle all of those nice HD signals, but its built-in tuner can't translate them (it's a matter of MPEG2 decompression). If you buy an HDTV that doesn't have a tuner, you'll have to lay out another couple hundred for a set-top box that acts as an over-the-air HD tuner. On the other hand, there's no reason to pay the extra money on a set with a built-in tuner if you're only going to use cable or satellite sources.

4) HDTVs and Big Ass TVs are not synonymous. You can have a big ass tv that's not HD (for example, you bought a rear projection TV some time during the 90s), and you can buy tiny HDTVs ('tiny' in this case is 'under 30" screens').

5) There are many different types of HDTVs. Do you want direct-view CRT? Rear projection CRT (henceforth known as RPTV)? LCD? Plasma? Rear projection DLP? Front projection CRT? Front projection DLP? Front projection LCD? They all have their pros and cons, and going through the different options would call for its own post.

6) Don't assume that the image quality of your set out of the box is the best it can do! After some wear-in time (say, 100 hours, or 6 months), you should have your TV professionally calibrated (costs around $300, http://www.imagingscience.com/), and you should consider getting it recalibrated ever couple of years thereafter. This is *especially* important with CRT-based models (direct view, rear projection, or front projection).

7) Look for forward-compatibility. The TV should at least have several component (YPrPb) inputs that do HD (my 4-year old TV has three component inputs, but two are limited to 480p; the third can accept YPrPb or RGBHV and accepts up to 1080i signals), and ideally it will also have a DVI input (some have old-skool VGA inputs, too). You might consider a set with HDMI, as that seems to be the way of the future, but if I were buying now my minimum standard would be component and DVI inputs (at least two component and one DVI). Failing that, at least buy a TV that's modular. Mitsubishi is the only company I know that does modular TVs, but I haven't been in the market for four years so Mitsubishi may have changed their position or other companies may have jumped on the bandwagon. Do your research!

8) Uh ... there is no 8?

re: How to get started in HDTV...

Chris Szurgot — Sun, 18 Sep 2005 04:14:37 GMT

I just got a big-ass TV myself, and I'm going through this very same struggle with HDTV.

1) I hate the Cox Cable DVR, but it's the only way to get HDTV (1 whole channel) over cable, so I'm using it for the moment to record CBS HDTV. (Better than nothing)

2) I'm keeping my Tivo for everything else that's not HDTV, cause it's a better interface, and actually records analog better than the Cox DVR. Hopefully, the HDTV/CableCARD Tivo they promised us will actually come through and I'll be able to use CableCARD for what COX Delivers, and OTA for everything else.

3) I'm also looking into antenna options for the other 5 local affiliates (all six major networks broadcast HDTV OTA, but only one is released to Cox Cable. Fortunately, it's a flat landscape, and the towers are only 20 miles away, (only 2-3 degrees off of each other to the west) so that channel master should work (but I'll have to mount in the attic) If the OTA stuff works, I'll set up a PVR solution to record and broadcast back to the TV. <grin>

4) Rather than contact the mortgage company to work out a deal, I sold my investment property outright. <grin> It's a nice Samsung DLP 50 in. It won't kill a small family cause it's only 70-80 pounds, but it might take out an enthusiastic dog.