The Hollywood neighborhood used to be a seedy and occasionally dangerous backwater, the kind of place where “You better hope you don’t run out of gas,” as Ry Cooder sang in 1979. (Think of where Richard Gere picks up Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman).  But in the past 10 years, Hollywood has dramatically transformed into a booming center for L.A. nightlife, where well-turned-out young people gather to eat, drink, dance, and ogle one another. It’s an easy trip from downtown on the red line, and weeknights make for an easier night on the town since lines are shorter.

In an only so-so eating neighborhood, the excellent east-coast style fish restaurant called The Hungry Cat stands way out for its elegant simplicity and warm service.  The obsessively well-chosen ingredients, like the sea-fresh oysters, cherrystone clams, and shrimps at the raw bar, and the occasional inspired twists, like the braised clams with chorizo, make this hideaway well worth seeking out (entrees $16-22; entrance from a cul-de-sac midway down Vine in the Sunset+Vine complex, south of Hollywood and Vine stop on the red line).  For a more casual dining experience, hike along the star-emblazoned Hollywood Boulevard over to Lucky Devils, a combination scenester hangout and old-fashioned diner, with delicious but pricey burgers, and pecan shakes and homemade lime-aid that have the locals raving.  And the beer!  Hopheads will revel in the selection of Belgian and Southern California craft brews (dinner $15-25; red line to Hollywood and Highland; walk three blocks west along Hollywood Blvd).  And don’t turn up your nose at that Popeye’s fried chicken on the corner of Hollywood and Ivar – it’s not good for you, but it sure tastes good (dinner $5-8; Hollywood and Vine stop, two blocks east along Hollywood).

But enough with the gourmandizing – if you’re in the mood for endangered species, how about a genuinely thriving indie record store?  Combining the ambience of a Costco and the spirit of the coolest music person you know, the Hollywood Amoeba Records packs thousands of new and used CDs and DVDs into its many aisles.  And they also have free, live performances in-store, so watch the website for details. Or you could head next door to the ArcLight Cinemas – some find amenities like the cafe bar, $14 tickets, and no-latecomers policy pretentious for what is ultimately a movie theater, but on the other hand, conspicuous consumption is part of what the town is all about (Red line to Sunset and Vine; walk 1 ½ blocks to Ivar and head south to Sunset).

As for the lounges, bars, and clubs that exert Hollywood’s greatest pull?  Try the Velvet Margarita, the brand-new party emporium called The Kress, or The Room (1626 N Cahuenga Blvd) for the lively energy of single 20-somethings, and Citizen Smith for the appealing jumble of Old West, industrial, and baroque design elements (but not the overpriced food).  These three nightspots are walkable from red line Hollywood/Vine stop; for The Kress, walk west along Hollywood; all others, walk 3 ½ blocks west to Cahuenga, and head south – these are all part of the so-called “Cahuenga corridor” of nightspots). 

And if you want a taste of the status-conscious exclusivity on which the celebrities and the paparazzi thrive, try to get into the hot club-du-jour called the Green Door – although you’ll need to make advance dinner reservations to avoid getting stuck outside.  And be sure tell people that you came in your Bugatti, not on the subway. (One block west of the Cahuenga corridor on Ivar).